FILTH!

(Fragrances that are neither ‘demure’ nor ‘mindful’.)

Smiling Girl, a Courtesan, Holding an Obscene Image. Gerrit van Honthorst, 1625

I hesitate to admit this…

There’s a trait I have that I’m not at all proud of, and it seriously hampers my enjoyment of things. 

For pretty much any ‘trend’ that comes along, my automatic response is to eye it askance and deliberately avoid it, even if I think I might like it. Thus: “must-read” books, popular albums and even blockbuster films are eschewed; for no better reason than being culturally of the moment. Sometimes I do get over myself and tiptoe toward said trend, ending up as a huge fan [Schitt’s Creek springs to mind. I wanted to hate it. I DID hate the first episode. But it’s since become one of my most beloved, most-missed shows!]

I suppose I’ve always seen myself as being slightly out of step with the zeitgeist; so to find myself enjoying something that the majority of people appear to be raving about often seems anathema. It’s a stupid, pretentiously hipster-esque habit, and one I’ve occasionally managed to ween myself out of and be au courant [devoured The Traitors in real time, have listened to Charli XCX’s BRAT on repeat. I’m down with kids, me. Oh yeah.] 

However.

This whole ‘so demure, so mindful’ trend can get in the sea, and the fact it’s infiltrated the fragrance world gets my dander up even more. 

I know, it’s meant to be tongue-in-cheek, it’s supposed to be a bit humorous. ‘Hey Suzy, it’s just a bit of FUN, okay? Calm down!’ But it’s the antithesis of everything I like, and kind of puts me in mind of the darker side of that #tradwives trend, which properly makes my skin crawl with its Trumpian dogma. 

Think perfumes are nothing to do with politics? Women have been judged and differentiated by their smell for centuries, as Jonathan Reinarz elucidates in his brilliant study, Past Scents: Historical Perspectives on Smell.

Reinarz describes how people (mostly women) have been marked and subjugated by their smell, separating ‘Christian from the heathen… blacks from whites, women from men, virgins from harlots, artisans from aristocracy.’ The common theme? The virtuous smell ‘pure’, and ‘clean’, and (importantly) so incredibly subtle that to even notice their scent is to render them demonic whores of Satan. [#vibe]

You’ll note the word ‘demure’ is almost never applied to men. No, this spirit-dampening term has been worshipped and wanked over as a positive, feminine trait for centuries. Hush your pretty mouth, it hisses, threateningly. You should probably chasten and lessen yourself before you (gasp!) put off potential suitors, or give people the wrong idea, dear…

Joan Crawford in the utterly brilliant 1939 movie, The Women. [Entire cast of more than 130 speaking roles was female. In 1939. IMAGINE.]

I’ll own this is something of a personal trigger. It’s an element of the demure trend which reminds me of being on dating apps and having men (who were complete strangers to me) declaring in DMs that I shouldn’t wear red lipstick (a signature look for me) or so much eyeliner, or that dress, because it was “a bit much.” And that right there is a massive red flag [see? Red = DANGER!] which conjures unwelcome memories of exes and even sexist teachers who would constantly tell me to “tone it down a bit.” Meaning: I shouldn’t express my personality. Meaning: I should be quieter. Meaning: I shouldn’t ask uncomfortable questions, or state an opposite opinion, or dress to please myself, or laugh too loudly, or wear a fragrance that announces itself proudly. 

Well fuck that. 

I didn’t always put up with it then - some days, sometimes I rebelled even harder. But it DID hurt. A lot. Which, of course, it was meant to. Sometimes I shrank into myself and cried and desperately wondered how I could change myself to not only be accepted or even desired, but be loved for being me. Now, I’m of an age where people suggesting such modifications of my behaviour or appearance will be verbally eviscerated, and so I don’t care how popular this demure trend becomes. I shan’t be partaking.

Recently, I answered an @onthescentpodcast follower’s question about craving scents in the style of her much-missed Vivienne Westwood Boudoir, a perfume I also adored. So, I would add the two I described there to the bawdy list, below - because both Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles and Etat Libre d’Orange Putain de Palace absolutely fit the theme.

And in the spirit of maximalism, I must add another: the carnally rambunctious (also discontinued, but still sometimes available on eBay for far less than the Viv) Theo Fennell Scent, which I’ve also previously reviewed, found via the picture-link below…

onthescentpodcast

A post shared by @onthescentpodcast

Meanwhile, for those that wish to join me, I invite you to smear on your boldest lipstick, proudly proclaim your intelligence, laugh uproariously, slouch déshabillé on your chaise lounge, or dance on tables with your stockings rolled down. Let’s stick a middle finger up to #demure, and consider embracing the #depraved, #deviant and downright #degenerate in fragrant form!

I’ve organised these in reverse order of ribaldry, but whichever you try, do be sure to put too much on so it wards off wimps, won’t you, dear…?

Jouissance La Bague d’O

Inspired by The Story of O by Pauline Réage (1954), this fragrance is one of a quartet based on classic erotic literature by women. A ‘bruise-coloured bouquet’, it speaks of meaningful glances, heart-thumping silences, torrid letters written in rose-scented ink. There’s an emotional plunge as it warms, the sensation of falling fast, hearts on sleeves, a tangle of silk sheets and hot skin. 

£180 50ml eau de parfum jouissanceparfums.com

Marlou Carnicure 

Some reviews of this would have you believe it’s the scent of a Friday night in Sodom & Gomorrah, bottled. It’s actually far more stylish than that, but it’s certainly suggestive, and another that fans of Boudoir should try. Think waxed wood, smudged scarlet lipstick, fur coat (‘and no knickers’ as the saying goes) with powdered flesh and a drawn-out purr of satisfaction. 

£120 50ml eau de parfum (full size currently sold out in the U.K. but samples available for £10) saintecellier.com 

Guerlain Patchouli Paris 

In-house perfumer Delphine Jelk told me she ‘didn’t want to be shy about the patchouli’ in this one, and oh mama, she didn’t hold back! Joyously leaning in to the dark, damp earthiness of the note, she was inspired by the red light districts of Paris. Moody streets, passionate encounters, red neon, red velvet seats in the Moulin Rouge, cocktails served on sticky bars, salty kisses, and rain on windows. 

£295 for 100ml eau de parfum guerlain.com

Papillon Salome 

I prescribed this to one of our lovely podcast listeners who’s a burlesque dancer, and she not only purchased and loved it, but designed an entire routine inspired by the scent. It’s voluptuously beguiling, this one, with come-hither hips, heaps of jasmine, and a honeyed yet distinctively feral finish. 

£145 50ml eau de parfum papillonperfumery.co.uk

Beaufort Rake & Ruin 

Ah, if only the path to reckless ruin really smelled this good! Taking inspiration from fragrant botanicals used in distilling, it slinks and swaggers, gin-soaked, through misty morning streets while crooning bawdy songs. Crawling into bed, it feasts on flickers of deliriously debauched scenes: unslaked thirst, smoke and leather and love bites. Oh, you know it’s bad for you, but you’ll crave more, regardless.

£115 50ml eau de parfum beaufortlondon.com

(There’s clearly a lot of craving going on, as it’s currently out of stock here and at Bloom Perfumery (available on back-order, there.) But until it’s back, you can try it in the seductively unheimlich Revenants Discovery Set – £45 for 5 samples.

Eris Parfums Ma Bête 

Even I - a renowned connoisseur of carnal scents - wasn’t ready for quite how bawdy this one is. My eyes opened wide, I gasped, I may have even mimed a theatrical swoon when I first smelled it. Up top we have a golden swell of neroli borne aloft on soaring aldehydes, bursting through indolic jasmine, and burying its face in the silken fur of an astonishingly addictive, snarlingly animalic base. I definitely fell for it, hard, but it’s probably not one to wear when meeting a partner’s parents for the first time. (Although, given my theme of not dampening your spirit down, perhaps you should dare…?) 

£137 50ml eau de parfum saintecellier.com

I do totally understand this style of fragrance isn’t for everyone, but if you do secretly lust after such scents but find yourself scared to try them, I hope these reviews may sway you to feel braver. Let others dampen themselves down if they wish, but I shall be relishing reaching for scents with shamelessly immodest, swaggeringly overt olfactory characters. I hope it appals them.

If you fancy reading about more boudoir-esque scents, I did write an entire feature for The Scented Letter magazine…

Sadly, The Perfume Society don’t offer an online archive of past issues, but you CAN order a gorgeous print edition (now only £5 in the current sale! No idea how long this promo lasts, I’m afraid, but it might only be for the Bank Holiday.)